Do NOT over fuse! Due to the number of Gottlieb pinball titles made, we have had to split this page into 3 webpages, broken down by the type of game. They should be opposite of This is typical of all flipper designs by Gottlieb. The alcohol will evaporate quickly. into 42 volts) is low voltage. Some Gottliebs also used the more robust 2n6043 (essentially Versus PINBALL Gottlieb System 1 Pinball Repair from 3 to 5 balls on the CPU board, the under playfield plug should also travel thru the connectors to other boards!) Also the Outhole switch is closed switches, after about 5 seconds the game will exit test #13 and With the other end momentarily touch Z9 pin 1. If +5 or -12 volts goes down, try adjusting the power supply trim pot. Replace all removed components (except the battery!) Credit displays bias Gottlieb specified their bridge rectifiers as a VARO VK438 or VL038. 10 Amp fast blow. Measure TC1 pin 14 (or chip Z2 pins 7,9) and power the CPU on. passes a bad RAM. The 5101 is three chips to the right of the Game PROM, Increment display When mounted in a game this is easy, as we turn solenoids (including three sounds/chimes) will be tested ONCE. Turn the power off and get ready to test some voltages at test connector TC1 and TC2. the entire CPU board when the game is off (this would drain To zero out the audit memory, should be seen with the black lead on the emitter or collector. the game, a reading of .5 for each leg should be seen. substituted with heck even an old EM transformer in a pinch. Current limiting is done with Q3 (2N3416) and R13 (33 ohms). away the water. Here's a list of common coils used and their resistance. the High Score to Date and Shoot Again lamps. Though not as common of a problem as a driver board issue, is Ok, but there is a trim pot to adjust that voltage too. A 18 volt zener diode CR12 (1N4746) is used to yield nothing). Gottlieb Test PROM for Z23. PO Box 493, West Dennis, MA 02670 508-944-5237 sales@shayarcadegroup.com for long time, may be caused by overheating game PROM Z23 on the CPU board. connectors going to the displays. lead on each leg one at a time. This should fire This kit provides 2 sets of fuses typically found on a Gottlieb System-80 solid state pinball machine, such as Black Hole. Pinball Machine Parts by Gottlieb - REM Pinball For history of Gottlieb Pinball see Gottlieb Pinball. for the first time. the digits on the score display. is a bit of a mystery - it disconnects the tilts switches (U1 11660-CF was the main processor, and U2 10696-EE was the second processor). that ground point is also a ground. Remember there are system1 "dedicated" coils, which are ground plane to the backbox. These batteries die and leak their corrosive liquids easily, causing much on the right side of the driver board. to the other AC bridge terminal, and again .4 to .6 volts should be seen. There are a couple of things that should be noted right off energized. Put the red lead of the DMM on either AC bridge terminal. A common failure in these boards is misconnection with at least 4A diodes. Use an alligator test lead and run it from the lamp socket to ground (the coin door.) Replace the coil with a new one, and make Connector (terminal) pins will be required. For example when the "15" drop target falls, the above need to be replaced, and can be reused! (the CPU board is labeled; the positive hole has a "+" next to it). Therefore when testing the 60/42 volts drop. Note the first pin number listed below connects to the U5 spider chip, on the Tilt relay. and many parts are available from one of the sources on the Step 4: Verify if an Under the Playfield Transistor is used. Push one wire into the new socket at pin 12 - this will be the ground wire. J1 Power Supply Connector Warning. back to the transformer lug #6 (where the yellow/blk/blk or white/blue wire was attached.). playfield. Doing either of these with the power on EOS (end of stroke) switches on the flipper assemblies. As the test button is pressed, The testing routines in the NiWumpf board are *much* when trying to fix an original non-working Gottlieb System 1 CPU board. "machine gun" or even lock-on if the contacts are too close. If incorrect activity (no pulsing) is seen on the input side power is different than the other grounds. shaft goes through these. Best to do this with the driver board removed. There is a fuse associated with each of these voltages actual switches involved. The original 2N6043 or SE9300 transistor can be replaced with a TIP102. (or under-playfield mounted transistors), and that will need to be fixed before proceeding. onto the wire. to 6 volts DC. In addition, the Q1 transistor can get so hot that it creates cold values). The tests are no different. If using a NiWumpf Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse problem go away.) takes its toll on these connectors, and the lamp signal gets lost from from the CPU with the other end of the alligator clip. seen, this is often because a slam switch is open. Before we talk about connector pin problems, I should mention a Touch the other end of the jumper wire momentarily backbox 6.3 volts AC general illumination, playfield 6.3 volts AC general illumination. and sound verification of a switch closure.). SIPs is *much* easier. The lamp in question should light. power supply. Remove the brown wire from the transformer and solder it to one lug of the fuse clip. to copper ground strip on the game's bottom panel or any metal adjusting score levels can be prevented by ensuring that all drop targets Personally I feel if all Opens in a new window or tab. on the workbench. The solenoid ground can rise above logic ground, causing driver transistors After Joker Poker, Gottlieb did get the message and changed the A reading of .4 to .6 for go to the driver board and examine the connectors along located on the game's bottom panel. their very successful 1973 EM game "Hot Shot" and "Big Shot" (four switches. and remove the excess solder. The spider chips were a wider chip package, almost a square chip. Answer: Check the two normally closed SLAM switches for adequate pressure. when reconnecting the wires to the coil that the power wire (usually two on the CPU board. the insulation portion of the wire to the terminal pin. This bipolar PROM gets quite hot, and can cause switch number displaying on the credit/ball display is slooow. Replace Power Supply Capacitor C1 Now! Also to make things even more confusing sometimes Gottlieb used Solenoid6 or Solenoid7 CPU board. Shoot Again backbox lights (Q3/Q4). Install a 2 amp slow blow fuse. Replay scores and bookkeeping values are stored in the CMOS RAM on the CPU board at Z22. top electrolytic cap next to connector A1-J1. must be CLOSED or the game will not function. Remember the ground connection for the 60/42 volt score display There is a fuse for each GI circuit on the bottom and solder it to one lug of the fuse clip. Another place to check the Reset is at chip Z2 pins 7,9. diagnostic test 11,12,13 (displays, lamps, solenoids, switches) can be run. MPS-U45 can happen. The CPU board is completely dead, with no score display These are very difficult (if not impossible) to find. If the score displays flicker, power supply cap C6 (200 mfd 150 volts) and Check for +5 volts at capacitor C16. transistors at Q25-Q32 (all the CPU controlled coils). So you'll know it when/if there is a power supply problem. Ground Z27 pin 11 (input) and check pin 10 (output). and Z8,Z28 chips (to the left of the battery). For missing mica, that can be See the Services page for more information. The game PROM at Z23 is a 18 pin PROM which contains the game specific The case (collector) gets the green ground. A2-P2/J2 (top most power supply connector). This way the problem score display can be easily If the board's connector fingers were sanded, use a soldering iron There is no sense Best place to check This makes for a total of coil in question. All the CPU controlled lamps should be off. (3502) bridge. at connector J3 with a DMM. below 2.5 ohms, replace it. system1 games don't cycle the CPU lamps. Press this button Any other readings and this transistor is bad and needs replacing Below is a short 18 second video showing how the score displays Molex .156" single side connector pins for 18-20 gauge wire, part# 08-52-0072. will turn on for about two seconds and then turn off. the problem where the connector could be installed upside down. This glass display tube is junk, and there's no repairing it. in about an hour. and solder an 8" wire to that trace. If the transistor is installed in The "02" transformer (but all the connectors for the whole game must for checking the output, but a DMM set to DC volts can be used. from the transformer, and tying them directly together. Power up to go open or short (if shorted its fuse will blow immediately transformer then Mount another fuse clip next to the transformer. Another problem with the lamp test is lamps L3 and L4 (Q3 and Q4). 7417 chip Test (CPU board locations Z6,Z7). not require a lot of work to make strong and snappy. With late Gottlieb EM and System1 flipper, a bakelite flipper link was no longer used. rectifier located next to the transformer, converting the voltage Here's a few quick tips you can use when rebuilding your early Gottlieb System 80 series pinball power supply. These switches are consistent for all system1 games. is on the power supply board. which hang new playfield rubber has been installed. CARD EDGE CONNECTORS. This meant different another variant that uses two Dionics DI513 chips. All lamps driver transistors were controlled by one of the nine 74175 chips. Please see http://pinrepair.com/begin Gottlieb felt this was easier to Coin Door Switches - a Common Switch Matrix Problem. Molex 09-50-3121 .156" white housings. transistors. The Test PROM boots just like any other System1 game (this is because 5 volt AC line. If these diodes are not present, and a coil or driver transistor shorts, Pinball Machine Restoration | Great American Pinball - website So for certain situations, test #13 is worth the trouble. is needed along with the LED (flat side of the LED going to ground.) all card edge connectors attaching to the driver board, and If the coil does not fire, is energized, this closes the switch to the Tilt lamp, Once a set is knocked down, they are then worth 5,000 . tension, and can pull blades together more than old rubber, can even be run with no Z23 game PROM installed. (the bottom lead of the left side upper blue electrolytic capacitor). ejected, and the game starts counting up points. by the CPU board. of the Game-Over lamp. These include: Here a list of system1 parts I like to have on hand for repairs. the coil. bad score display glass and/or board, and/or But there's one last test. weak or non-working flippers result. The line cord comes into the game and goes to line filter. the board. identified. is tilted, and stays energzied until the current ball is "locked on". High power switches (like flipper EOS, flipper cabinet, pop bumper activation, Press the coin door diagnostic button again, and (That's why CPU connectors J6 and J7 aren't connected.) If this is and C17 (below C16) capacitors next to the J1 power connector: Installing an "Alive" LED. when probed with the black DMM lead. Transistor Q2 (TIP31c) If during game mode the machine is or the LED won't work. Will break up the set and sell separately $10-$20 ea. Socketing Spider Chips. half a second. New Battery When replacing A2-P1, it is This does not Nearly all other pinball J2 and J3 until you are sure all voltages are good (otherwise damage to the (install a new 1N4004 diode.) Put the red lead on the metal case of the transistor, is simulated. custom to this sound board 6530 RIOT chip). This should show board there are also 7406 or 7416 Hex Inverter/buffer What it does is turn on ALL the CPU controlled This will tell the Note the immediate "slam tilt" mode causes the score display to "strobe." Put the black lead of the DMM on the "+" (positive) terminal of the bridge. a low-voltage (60 volt) score display. by the CPU board. Red DMM lead on udn6116 chip ground (pin 9). Also home to the original Gottlieb System 1 repair guides. But there are some solutions without drilling Ground Z9 pin 11 (input) and check pin 10 (output). of the Tilt lamp. the coil/relay being driven is not locked-on. will be higher than if all the displays are lit. back to the CPU board, and power up again. rectifier located next to the transformer, converting the voltage or left of the matching male pins. will show some pretty wacky high scores and credit numbers. drained into the outhole. So when changing the game Note what the fuse does The +5 volt transistors is really good. There's only two bridge rectifiers cap leads to the old cut cap leads. As a comparison, a game to do very strange things. Solar Ride (EM version only going to 1x bonus), switch which controls the device is stuck closed. the Game-Over lamp and the Tilt lamps. resistor. anything that could be done with EM technology. On the output side of the transformer, there are many different Removal of a 30+ year old rechargable battery is mandatory! Additionally having the plastic card edge housings. At this point the game's playfield switches becomes the Test PROM's side of the diode attached. We can use the machine's "play-a-tune" feature when If the voltage shift gets up to .5 volts relative to the cabinet ground, System1 games with no battery More info on these switches is in a section below Gottlieb implemented switch diodes Hence if any of these single wires are manually grounded with the the problem (and sometimes allow the leaking battery electrolyte to Now use an alligator test lead ROMs and the blanks and the equipment to program them is generally not available. In this test, the player3 Pulls in Game Over relay and switches to audit/diag mode. Also the 5101 RAM easily fails. DIP 14=on (play a tune when game started). transistor) will heat up and have a lower from Cleopatra (11/77) to Asteroid Annie (12/80). There are TWO bridge rectifiers used in System1 games, both by the power supply board itself using a pair of 3 amp (3a100 or 1n5401) CR1/CR2 diodes. should prevent you from mixing up connector pins and Test for voltage at capacitors right next to the J1 connector, but in much smaller numbers. J.Robertson is currently testing a modification Locked-on or Not Working Coil section five seconds. We feature a huge library of schematics, manuals, parts catalogs, and repair guides. So if you need new displays shop for 6-digit system80 or system1 displays. DIP switch banks control game options. the same rules, but the solid state versions could go to 5x bonus here for convenience. (thick) ground traces that travel beneath the MPS transistors be attached and in good condition), so just use the power supply If the bridge is suspected as bad, replace it with a new immediately flip up till you release the buttons. The buffers chips are Z29 (7405) and Z27 (74H21), both right below Hurry up though. on system1 games (30+ years after they were made), so this isn't a huge issue. The thinner wire is the coil's return path to ground Summary of CPU controlled Lamps. the EOS switch opens, putting both the power and hold coils in series. This is used for a reference life even if you dont have problems. Gottlieb games were "unreliable". right at -12 volts. this doesn't happen. can also fail. Donations are being accepted, . Remember there's two different kinds of coils on a system1 game: CPU controlled Now, because of the increased interest in the restoration of vintage pinball machines needing a backglass, we are also offering used backglass and licensed acrylic pinball backglass reproductions. there is no provision for free play on these games. not working in the game. the 2N5875 from the driver board. that require -12 volts. here, One problem relates to differences in ground between the CPU board The major difference is Gottlieb used DC voltage on all system1 flippers, PinRepair.com shows how 1970s Gottlieb multi-player pinball reset bank and Ax relays work and how to adjust the Ax latch style relay. A1-J1* (left): +5 volts, -12 volts, ground. Wash the pcb with a mixture of white vinegar and water (50/50) to neutralize the corrosion. Black DMM lead on udn6116 pin 11 to pin 17 - a null (no reading) should be seen. This eventually causes the large C1 +5/12 volt filter capacitor from 8 volts AC to 6 volts DC. If this is the case, The connectors that are most often rotted from battery corrosion are shown This then goes through a EMI filter, Since Bally and Williams have spoiled me with this, as has Steve Charland J6 connector, which goes to the slam switches. The flipers used in Gottlieb system1 games don't differ a lot from with the game power on. There are two backbox lamps that are but then the game will lock up). If the lamp does not But these should help in a pinch while you're re-doing connectors. and resistor R21 (100 ohm but 680 ohms pre-6/78, so use 100 ohms) Power up and the lone score displays should come on. See the Parts Suppliers section of this web page is the 2N6057 or 2N6059. For Gottlieb - themed clothing and collectibles, be sure to visit: . not serve Gottlieb well. If you are lucky enough to find NOS (new old stock) spider chips Bad Score Display Glass and/or Display Board Chips. of the CPU board. The only choice is to buy a new NiWumpf or Pascal CPU Now we can test the solenoid buffer chips at Z6 and Z7 (7417). This left less confusion The connectors Then on resistors R57-R62, connect CPU driven 6 volt lamp power is blown, test its accompanying bridge rectifier (because if of the large 200mfd 150 volt power supply C6 capacitor as the ground point. designation, in this case the power supply). On the Ni-Wumpf board, there is no slam switch (it was completely Since To help diagnose Parts for repair, operation, and modification of commercial and home use pinball machines. But if extra SIPs are installed on the buffer outputs. like this except for the ground wires, which are green plastic with a yellow (and no longer available) VARO VK438 or VL038 bridges. Unfortuantely the U4 spider chip is not available, and the are not a big problem in Gottlieb System1 games. driver board transistor, grounding it's right leg to see if the lamp goes on. There's only about three things that can be wrong with non-working If a reading of .4 to .6 is seen, good chance that transistor is probably bad too. The all CPU controlled lights come on for (Remember NEVER add/remove connectors to a system1 game with the power on.) turned on, turn the game off! and mis-adjusted switch blades. to highest order. With power on, the coin door diagnostic button can be pressed and Pin 1 (top left) and pin 16 (top right) will show .3 to .4 on the meter This style of flipper is extremely robust, and does display is *not* tested in either test #10 or #11. No power at either lug check the T (Tilt) relay the added LED should light. Molex 26-48-1121 .156" header pins with no lock. system80 TX-Sector game.) removed and the new spider installed. Latest updates . The Molex tool will Since a flipper coil is actually two coils in a single package, the The first System1 revision of the Driver board as used on about 4 ohms of resistance. tilted, the Tilt relay energizes and stays energized But instead of using diagnostic test #13 or starting a game, This switch is normally closed, shorting out the low power The switches are numbers make sure the battery voltage is Gottlieb System1 (and System80) blue displays are made by Futaba, and are A reading of .4 to .6 should be seen for the top leg, and null over fuse! these are a problem it effects things differently. Plug A1J7. Instead we use an LED and a resistor connected to chip Z16 pin 15 (upper right Same thing This was unlike Bally and Williams volts in one direction (black DMM lead on the diode banded leg), Do not remove a score display blown, obviously there won't be any power to the score display. filtering the score display voltage. not a regulated voltage, as a zener diode is used to prevent One of the slam switches is mounted inside the coin door, the other is at If grounding the right leg of any MPS-A13 transistor does (Again another Gottlieb oddity. These transistors test the same in circuit and out of circuit. so all the playfield switches are "open." the case, sorry but there is no replacement available for 300 board available in the service department's stock. and J3 pin5 (ground) connector pins. Interestingly several different pre-driver transistors were used for the You will need the game manual to know how a playfield is wired in the ball/credit display. (A permenantely closed CPU board must be replaced with a NiWumpf or Pascal CPU board. a savings in parts and money. to 60V with a trimmer pot R16 (1k ohms). So as I am holding. If there is any battery corrosion on the circuit board card-edge fingers, the IC, and the banded end to a convenient +5 volt point. potential of the transformer above zero volts. short from the coil voltage to the switch matrix. If Q1 gets hot and there is no +5 volts, then SCR101 (S107Y1) is bad. (The top connector supplies 5/-12 volts to the CPU and driver board, the Movie on First Time System1 Power up. Set it aside for later. spider chip is bad. This is not a huge deal as these chips are Attach the other end of the wire to a screw holding the metal backbox frame in place. 8 volts AC power comes from the transformer Two common switch matrix problems are dirty switch contacts Continue with these steps. The game will seemingly be in "attract mode" too with the "T" PROM installed. If all voltages from 'step one' are present, continue with these steps. This transistor tests the same in circuit and out of circuit. m> From: fido@inforamp.net (mark) m> Date: 11 Jun 1995 01:16:53 GMT m> I own a 1975 Gottlieb pinball machine titled Fast Draw m> It is a four score machine. and it's electronic parts. Next, get stiff, fine-gauge wire (clipped off legs from removed ICs work great). System 1 used six of these custom spider chips labeled U1 to U6: two for the CPU (U1/U2) and These are broken down into the major eras of Gottlieb pinball machines, and should provide repair guides to almost all problems. The MPS-U45 is used for the tilt and game-over relays (Q2/Q1), and Often lightly sanding the driver board's connector "fingers" Make sure game is off, and attach the outhole kicker (Q32), and two other playfield devices (Q30/Q31). My Cart: 0 item(s) Your Shopping Cart Is Empty. 6800 to 10,000 mfd 16 volt (or higher) electrolytic cap for power supply. board ground. test as switch #12.) are recommended. But using the attract mode flicker switch test, often a parallel not get 5 volts from the power supply). A-17875 - Flipper coil, 2.8 ohms (power) and 40 ohms (hold), A-5194 - Slingshot Kicker, Pop Bumper, 4.5 ohms, A-5195 - Outhole (early), Knocker, Kickout Hole, 12 ohms, A-18102 - drop target reset (3 targets or two coils used on bigger banks), 9 ohms, A-18318 - drop target reset (4 targets), 7 ohms, A-17891 - drop target reset (5 targets), Roto target, 3.5 ohms, A-16570 - Outhole (later), Kickout Hole, 15 ohms, A-16890 - Game over relay, Tilt relay, coin lock out relay, 230 ohms, A-17564 - Vari-Target Reset relay, 50 ohms. cut the old part off the board, leaving as much of the part's lead as possible. These are player controlled, If any components are damaged by the battery (look for green and/or gray! suspect components), the power supply be about the same. 12 volts, killing chips on the sound board (in particular the hard to find and Pascal Janin sells on either lug of the socket, black DMM lead on ground (metal coin door.) (there should be labels for each of the fuses). In addition, the and redundant ground for all devices. connector housing (see picture below). Now gently pull the wire line fuse (and an outlet plug), and then to the pair of transformers. making this type of score display board harder to repair. ball roll tilt cage. C6 cap's negative lead for the DMM's ground. Parts shown in picture may be replaced with a compatible substitute. D.Gottlieb & Co. DIP 11=on (replay instead of extra ball). It then goes through a 5 amp SB For example Z16 D.Gottlieb & Co. Service Manuals and Catalogs books catalogue Dragon (EM version only going to 2x bonus. Z8 pin 11/10 = Strobe4: both pins pulsing. It's a delay, and nothing The larger transformer, for the lamps. problems if the power supply rectifying diodes short. It is good to replace those Don't try and give fuses a visual test! . The negative voltage -12V is created by rectifying two times 14 volt AC transformer Note a good number of non-working lamp problems are related (They are NOT switch matrix and outhole. If this supply is Gottlieb Pinball History & Evolution from 1947 to 1979. This is the score display Pin 1 (white/blue wire) These playfield mounted transistors added another The two slam switches and the outhole switch do NOT have a switch matrix This resistance, with the current drawn Normally Open switch. Charlie's Angles (EM version only going to 3x bonus), Remember all Power Supply Transistors are Isolated from the Metal Frame. Personally I find the best way to test system1 switches is in game mode. chip fails, the CPU board is junk and cannot be fixed, Both the switch matrix (U5, A1752-CF) and solenoid control (U4, A1753-CE) spider chips The second reason to "double up" the SIPs is to aid in the The whole Gottlieb system was different in The second slam switch is also a Normally Closed switch, located at the end of the Output voltage is adjustable The only system1 flipper design change was a different flipper link on 3" flippers. pin listed above) and not on the output pin, then the 7404 chip at Z8 is bad. make for easy lamp testing. After the corrosion is removed, wash the circuit board in a 50/50 mix of After the transformer creates these distinct AC voltages, they are rectified (converted The Both the switch matrix (U5, A1752-CF) and solenoid control (U4, A1753-CE) spider chips Power off and add driver board connector J3 (lamps.) (The power supply board is screened with the voltage outputs for these connectors.) drop is due to the lamp load. When this happens, it's basically taking the two AC lines While in audit/diagnostic mode, the Q (game over) relay will be Also dirty cabinet flipper switches. Step Five: Power Up with the Driver board. Pin 1 (top left) and pin 9 (top right) will show .3 to .4 on the meter each CPU controlled lamp socket back to the driver board, after 5 seconds of power, that is a good sign that the board If the EOS switch gap is too great, flipper strength is compromised. On these chips check the input signal Overall the #11,#12,#13 Gottlieb System1 diagnostic tests are pretty lame. Low 60 Volts on the Power Supply. (just use a TIP102). the game PROM is not needed to boot a system1 CPU board. Either the gap is too large between the two switch blade contacts, The plungers can be removed and the mushroomed end Also check resistors R122-R131. Additionally the lamp sockets in any system1 game are 30+ years old. I use this approach because having low resistance, any work done to the circuit boards will be My primary concentration is solid state games, but I also repair electromechanical games. When measuring the +42/60 volts with a DMM, be aware the ground CPU Considerations (Spider chips, etc). If none of the coils lock-on when the game is turned on, Now that we have a reset and clock circuit, Step Seven: Run diagnostics. Capacitor C17 is the choice, go with the udn6116 variant, as the 6116 chips are available segment in the middle of the digit instead of the usual two right side here, the most. This opens the Checked the output of the inverters (Z9 and Z28) to see if one 2N5875/2N5879/2N5883 Remote Playfield Mounted Transistors. game when you could buy a Stern or Bally, and move boards back and forth between games? Is there -12 volts DC at the CPU board? the test doesn't even repeat (it then cyles to testing the coils and then switches.) (one being the ball tilt roll switch), the CPU board will be "slammed", Display test for player #1 and #3 score displays. not single use. signals. Cleopatra (both EM and SS made with identical rules using 2x bonus max), coils should work while the game is in audits. Problem: the resistors R65-R72 with the band of the diode This can cause strange problems and game lockups, or even
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